Tam, kjer so bogovi padli na glavo

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Pot je dolga, prašna in nezanimiva. Kilometri in kilometri dolgočasne pokrajine puščave Kalahari na levi in desni strani ceste, vmes pa zaselek ali dva, ki bolj spominjata na vasico duhov kot pa na vasico, polno življenja in otroškega kričanja. Ja, takšna je pot do dežele ljudstva San – Bušmanov, ki so postali znani širši publiki predvsem zaradi filma pred dobrimi 30 leti s slovenskim naslovom “Bogovi so padli na glavo”. Tsumwke, pravo “velemesto” na koncu sveta je zadnja lokacija, kjer se, z nekoliko sreče, še vedno lahko oskrbiš z bencinom, vodo in ostalimi najnujnejšimi pripomočki za preživetje v tej neizprosni pokrajini. Je prav tako idealno izhodišče za obisk okoliških vasic ali avanturističen pobeg do sosednje Botswane.
V tem delu sveta se življenje v zadnjih 30 letih ni kaj prida izboljšalo – mogoče so šle določene stvari zaradi globalizacije in požrešno neizprosnega kapitalizma le še navzdol. V Namibiji so se Bušmani še nekako uprli zakonu kapitala in zavarovali svojo zemljo, način življenja, v sosednji Botswani pa je zgodba na žalost popolnoma drugačna. Iz Tsumkweja smo se tako po prespani mrzli noči takoj podali naprej – prepotovati je bilo potrebno še nekaj mivkastih kilometrov do naše postojanke za naslednja dva dneva – vasice bušmanov v osrčju puščave Kalahari.

The road is long, dusty and not really interesting. Kilometres and kilometers of boring landscape of Kalahari Desert to the left and right and in between, a hamlet or two that are more reminiscent of a ghost village than of the village, full of life and child screaming. Yes, this is the way to the land of the San people, which have become known to a wider audience 30 years ago with the movie entitled “The gods must be crazy”. Tsumwke, real “metropolis” at the end of the world is the last location where, with a little luck, you can still get car petrol, water and other most urgent things to survive in this unforgiving landscape. It is also an ideal starting point for visits to nearby San villages or to take adventurous road to neighboring Botswana.
In this part of the world things did not improve much in the last 30 years – perhaps due to globalization and greedy capitalism some things are even worst. In Namibia, the Bushmen still have some rights, they try to protect their land, their way of life. But in neighboring Botswana, the story is unfortunately completely different. From Tsumkwe, where we spent just one night, we drove couple of more kilometers to our final destination – peacuful San village in the middle of Kalahari dessert. 

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