Armstrong, ovčje glave in -20°C, Mangystau, Kazahstan

O letošnjem Kazahstanu nisem napisal praktično ničesar in glede na videno si definitivno zasluži nekaj objav. 😉 Torej, po 10 dneh Uzbekistana in hektičnem 30 urnem potovanju z vlakom v zahodni Kazahstan, je bil čas za novo pravo avanturo. Naša prva kazahstanska noč je bila kratka, a sladka. 🙂 Spali smo v simpatičnem hotelčku v mestu Aktau ob Kaspijskem morju, kjer je nekaj 10 let nazaj spal tudi astronavt Armstrong. Osebje je bilo prijazno, po nekaj izmenjanih ruskih besedah pa so nas proglasili kar za rusko govoreče prišleke. 🙂 Kaj vse mi je mamca-kuharica razlagala naslednjo jutro, ko nam je pripravljala slastna jajca na oko, mi ni jasno še danes. Na zahod Kazahstana, v puščavski Mangystau, smo se odpravili zaradi super dogodivščine, ki nam jo je obljubil super prijazni lokalni vodič Sergej. 3 dnevna kamping off road tura je bila mamljiva že od začetka. Edina stvar, ki nas je begala, je bil le letni čas – beri konec zime, ki pa v tistih koncih še vedno pomeni nočnih nekaj 10 stopinj pod ničlo. Kljub temu, da je bila Sergejeva prva zimska tura s popotniki, je zadevo rešil nadvse spektakularno – webasto smo imeli speljan kar v šotor, poleg tega pa nam je pripravil še čisto nove zimske spalne vreče kazahstanske vojske. 🙂 🙂

Prvi dan 3-dnevne ture se je začel, kot smo si le želeli. Sončno vreme, zanimiva pokrajina, ki se je spreminjala praktično vsak kilometer… Kosilo, ki smo ga pojedli med veličastnimi, skoraj vesoljskimi kroglami, je bila le pika na i prvemu delu dneva. Po kosilu pa so se stvari zapletle. Najprej se je zlomilo vzmetenje prikolice s celotno opremo za zimsko kampiranje, sledilo je hektično iskanje mehanika po okoliški vaseh. Eden izmed dveh, ki smo ga našli, je pokazal več zanimanja za flambiranje kozje glave, kot pa za pomoč in zaslužil nekaj dolarskih cvenkov. Pozno popoldan smo provizorično le nekako popravili vse skupaj in nadaljevali do naše prve nočne lokacije, kamor pa smo prišli že v trdi temi in temperaturah konkretno pod ničlo. Okolica okrog nas je bila čista neznanka. Nad šotorom smo lahko opazovali le skrivnostna skalovja, ki so se nam predstavila šele naslednje jutro. A o tem v naslednjem postu. 😉

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I haven’t written practically anything about this year’s trip to Kazakhstan, and from what I’ve seen, I have to write couple of posts about it. So, after 10 days of Uzbekistan and a hectic 30-hour train journey to western Kazakhstan, it was time for our new real adventure. Our first Kazakh night was short but sweet. 🙂 We slept in a nice hotel in the city of Aktau near the Caspian Sea, where astronaut Armstrong also slept a few 10 years ago. The staff was friendly, and after a few exchanged Russian words, we were declared Russian-speaking newcomers. 🙂 Everybody spoke to us in russian and it was the same with the lady, who prepared breakfast for us next morning. What was she saying to me its still a mystery for me. 🙂 We decided to travel to the west of Kazakhstan, in the desert Mangystau, because de wanted to experience a great adventure promised to us by a super friendly local guide Sergei. The 3 day off road road camping trip was tempting right from the start. The only thing that bothered us was the time of year – the end of winter, which in those parts still means a few 10 degrees below zero at night. Despite the fact that this was Sergej’s first winter tour with travelers, he solved the matter spectacularly – we had webasto heater almost in our tent and he bought brand new winter sleeping bags for us from the Kazakh army. 🙂 🙂

The first day of the 3-day tour started as we just wanted. Sunny weather, an interesting landscape that changed practically every kilometer … We ate lunch among the magnificent, giant, almost UFO stone balls. After lunch, however, things got complicated. First, the suspension of the trailer with all the equipment for winter camping broke and it was almost impossible to find a mechanic to help us. In first village the mechanic was more in flambéing a goat’s head than in helping us and earning a few bucks. But later in the afternoon we finally found one. He somehow fixed everything together and we continued to our first overnight location, where we arrived already in total darkness and temperatures concretely below zero. We didnt know where we pitched our tents. We just saw the moon shades of mysterious rocks hanging above our heads. But more about that in the next post. 😉  

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